Start at Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum (arrive early, 10am), then walk Calle Fermín Calbetón exploring independent galleries and design shops. Lunch at a txoko (members' cooking club) if you know someone, otherwise a pintxos bar. Afternoon: wander Paseo de Salamanca's belle époque facades, visit the Tabakalera contemporary art centre. End with sunset vermouth at a locals' café on Avenida Tolosa.

Start at Plaza de la Constitución for coffee and the square's columned history, then spend two hours in the Museo de San Telmo tracing Basque maritime and cultural roots. Lunch at a pintxos bar in Parte Vieja, afternoon wander through Gothic streets and into the Cathedral, finish with txakoli wine at a hidden txoko (members' club terrace if you have a local friend) watching sunset over the harbour.

Start at the Cathedral of Santa María del Coro by 9am before crowds arrive, then spend mid-morning in the Naval Museum tracing Basque maritime history. Lunch at a traditional pintxo bar on Calle 31 de Agosto, wander the Jewish Quarter's hidden plazas, and finish evening doing the proper txoko bar crawl along the waterfront.