Start at the Cathedral at 8 AM when light floods the Gothic interior before crowds arrive. Spend mid-morning in the Royal Chapel examining Catholic monarchs' tombs, then lunch at a taberna on Calle Reyes Católicos. Afternoon: navigate the narrow streets to the Museum of the Councils of Toledo, or linger in Plaza Bib-Rambla watching street performers. End with wine and local ham at a terrace overlooking the Darro River as the Alhambra glows.

Begin at Iglesia de San Andrés (free, 16th-century Mudéjar tower) with coffee at Bodegas Castañeda, then explore the Museo de los Concilios' medieval manuscripts. Lunch at a local tasca on Calle Panadería, spend the afternoon in independent galleries around Plaza de la Trinidad, and end with vermouth and tapas at a standing bar as Realejo's evening crowds arrive.

Start at Plaza Nueva with coffee, climb to San Nicolás viewpoint for sunrise over the Alhambra, explore the Museo de los Mártires and Arab Baths by mid-morning, lunch at a hidden terraza overlooking the valley, then wander Cuesta de Gómez and Carmen gardens until sunset prayer calls echo through the streets.